Fes to Chefchaouen

March 6th to 8th 2026

Published March 17th 2026

Green hillside sloping down to a large lake with mountains beyond
Steep climbs along the edge of the reservoir completed with plenty of encouragement from hordes of children leaving school.
Road overlooking a lake at dusk with storm clouds and distant rain
Sleeping bag and camping stove set up inside a small storage room
The auberge I'd planned to stay in was abandoned but they'd left a room open. I wasn't aware I was sharing with a cat until it decided to leave in a hurry around 6am.
Foggy town street crowded with cars and people in hooded jackets
My chain broke on the way up to Bni Ahmed, huge thanks to Abdel who took me up and down the busy town spread along a single street until we found a car mechanic who could get me going again (fix involved a hammer and 6 spectators).
Green tent pitched among bushes with snow-capped Rif mountains behind
A favourite camp spot, secluded well above the road with mountains in all directions.
Blue van beside a mountain road winding toward snowy peaks

Why does it feel like I've gone through a time machine?